Detailed Itinerary
*Note that although we try to follow
the itinerary below, at times local trail or weather conditions may
make slight changes necessary. The trekking itinerary may also vary
slightly depending on our trekkers' acclimatization rates.
Early Arrival
Providing you have sent us your
arrival details, you will be met at the airport by a representative
from Dwarika's Hotel and taken by private car to Dwarika's.
Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1340m/4355ft
You'll be met at
the airport by one of your guides for the trek, Lhakpa Doma Sherpa,
so look out for a sign with your name on it when you leave the airport.
We will drive you back to either of our two boutique hotels, Yak &
Yeti or Hotel Shangri La, where your rooms are booked for you.
Enjoy your unique room and take
the afternoon to relax by the pool and recover from your long flight
out to Nepal. There are several top-notch restaurants and bars within
the hotel complexes, as well as spas, cafes and shops.
Day 2 - Kathmandu
You have a free
day to explore the Kathmandu valley. Options: Climb the many steps to
Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views of Kathmandu
(at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its unique synthesis of Buddhism
and Hinduism. The striking Buddha eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over
a lively and colorful Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all
over the Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional gompas,
and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags, Boudhanath
attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for daily circumambulations
(koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square, one of the old capitals of the
Kathmandu valley, is a synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas
and statues, and is often the site of festivals, marriages and other
ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred temple complex on the
banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys run up and down the steps
of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing saddhus draped in burnt-orange
and saffron sit serenely meditating - when they’re not posing
for photos-for-rupees.
*** We can help to arrange a guide
and car for you, or you can arrange any sightseeing in Kathmandu or
the Kathmandu Valley directly through Dwarika's.
Day 3 - Fly to Lukla 2850m/9350ft, Trek to Monjo 2835m/9300ft
A little after sunrise,
you are indulged with a spectacular 30-minute flight over the Kathmandu
valley and along the snow-capped Himalayan ranges to the airport at
Lukla. After sorting out our loads with the porters and breakfast at
Eco-Paradise Lodge, we will start trekking. The quaint village of Chaunrikharka
lays below us; the trail takes us above a rhododendron-choked forest,
over the school and gompa and past the checkered fields of barley, spinach
and potatoes of the village. Ahead of us is Karyolung peak, covered
in snow.
We are trekking along the Dudh Kosi (river)
along a centuries-old trading trail from Nepal to Tibet. It is well
traveled by stout, heavily loaded Nepali porters and Tibetan traders
(Khampas, most distinguishable by the length of red or black tassel
wrapped around their heads) conducting business between the weekly markets
of Lukla and Namche with Chinese and Tibetan goods brought over the
5700m Nangpa La (pass) from Tibet.
From the small hamlet of Thado Kosi, while
crossing a small, shaky bridge, we view the three sister peaks of Kusum
Kangguru to the east. More beautiful walking over cobbled trails takes
us through Ghat and the best-maintained cluster of mani stones and prayer
flags in the Khumbu. The local lama, owner of the Lama Lodge in Ghat,
is responsible for this magical setting. At Phakding, a lively village
a half hour's walk away from Ghat, we’ll have lunch at Ang Sani
and Jangbu's Shangri La Lodge, well deserving of its name.
Passing by the small tea-houses servicing
the locals and workers in Phakding, we cross a long suspension bridge
over the Dudh Kosi and trek above the river, climbing a bit to reach
the first lodge of Benkar on the left. Continuing over a small bridge,
we continue through the rest of Benkar, the first village to attend
the Monjo school. Another suspension bridge, another climb, and we reach
Chumoa. One more small bridge and larger climb on uneven stone steps,
and we finally reach Monjo, where we stop at the luxurious Summit Lodge
for the night. You'll order off the menu and enjoy your 'five-star'
mountain experience.
Day 4 - Trek to Namche
3450m/11,315ft
Descending down to the main trail in Monjo, we pass the small
school on the left, just beyond the large cluster of mani walls. Soon
afterwards we enter the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park; we
descend to the river and cross yet another suspension bridge to reach
Jorsale village, and one more bridge before continuing along the sandy
riverside trail, the shores peppered with large, rounded rocks.
Bring your five-colored Tibetan prayer flags
to hang on the long suspension bridge over the confluence of the Dudh
Kosi (milk river) and the Bhote Kosi (river from Tibet) and send prayers
out into the Everest region! The steep hour and a half climb to Namche
is broken half-way up the hill by our first view of Everest, Lhotse
& Nuptse, and will prime you for the bakery once we arrive at this
old trading village.
Namche Bazaar, now the most prosperous trading
village on the old trade route with Tibet, sits in an amphitheater surrounded
by mountains. From here, we have perfect views of Kongde Ri in front
of us, Kangteiga, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru to the east and Khumbila
behind us. Down-valley, the hills and valleys of the route from Solu
to Khumbu from Jiri sit shrouded in hazy shades of grey.
We stay at the wonderful Sherpa Land Lodge,
a new lodge with attached Western-style bathrooms, a restaurant and
small bar and local decor, where you'll be treated to spectacular mountain
views all day.
Day 5 – Namche
An acclimatization day, so you are free to explore or to relax
in the village.
Options: Visit the Namche Gompa perched
on the hillside, the Sherpa Cultural Center museum and re-constructed
Sherpa house or the National Park Headquarters museum. The Tibetans
are often in the center of town in a dusty bazaar with their goods from
China. Alternatively, you might choose just to indulge yourself at one
of the two famous bakeries, shop for some yak bells or hand-woven Himalayan
hats, look through the gear shops for good trekking gear, chat with
the sociable Sherpas in the village, or just relax in preparation for
the trek. Watch out for dzopkios and cows wandering the narrow streets.
For some peak-spotting, climb steeply to
a viewpoint an hour’s walk straight up the ridge, worth the effort
for the panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. Along the
way, you are likely to see some wildlife such as musk deer, Himalayan
Tahr and the spectacularly-hued Danphe (the Nepali national bird).
The lodge has hot showers, a large library,
a TV with videos (Everest Imax, anyone?), beers in the cabinet and delicious
home-cooked food, so there is really no reason to leave at all! They'll
do laundry if anyone has grungy clothes.
From here up, the acclimatization process
dictates our itinerary, so we will have plenty of shorter days walking.
Day 6 - Trek to Thame 3700m/12,136ft
It's a lovely four to five hour hike along the Bhote Kosi to
the traditional Sherpa village of Thame. Heading back down to Namche,
we take the route to the left of Namche Gompa high up above the village
to the old mani stone hill, now being excavated to build Namche's new
lodges. We continue north on this relatively flat trail, contouring
around several old Sherpa villages, past many mani walls and around
white-washed chortens with Buddha eyes until we reach the lively village
of Thamo. There is a newly-renovated ani gompa (nunnery) above the village,
worth a visit. Another few hours of contouring with small ascents and
descents brings us to the Thame bridge high over the river.
We will probably also share the trail with
Tibetan yak caravans, trading en route to and from Namche and Tibet
with the villagers. Thame is an old village of snaking rock walls, paddocks
and traditional slate-roofed Sherpa houses. Thame Gompa, perched up
to the north of the village, is one of the oldest in the Khumbu, and
one of the gompas that celebrates the Dunche festival in the summertime.
We stay the night at Lhakpa's uncle Kami (of Khunde Hospital) and his
wife Dawa Dolma's Valley View Lodge, a newly renovated lodge with en
suite rooms, a wonderful wood dining room and the best tongba (fermented
millet beer, served in a bamboo container with a long straw and hot
water) in the Khumbu.
Take the afternoon to climb to
the gompa and wander around the walled village. We will stop in at Lhakpa's
mother and sister's house in the lower end of the village for a cup
of tea if they are not in Mende, their winter home.
Day 7 - Trek to Khumjung 3800m/12,465ft
Re-crossing the bridge over the Bhote Kosi, we trek back along
the trail to Namche until we reach a large intersection leading to Khunde
and Khumjung. Heading up, we ascend a hundred meters to the airstrip
at Syangboche. On the ridge just above the airstrip, still used for
cargo, there are great views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse, and a yak-breeding
center. We may see some Himalayan Tahr en route, as there is a large
herd living in the vicinity. Stone steps lead us to the chorten above
Khunde, which looks out over Ama Dablam, and we descend back down to
this green-roofed village.
Khunde's hospital, where Lhakpa's uncle
Kami is the head doctor, was founded by Edmund Hillary and treats many
cases of AMS along with the local Sherpas. We will visit the local gompas
of both villages, Khumjung's gompa housing a Yeti scalp. These adjoining
villages are some of the original villages in the Khumbu region, both
about 600 years old, and are wonderful examples of local Sherpa architecture
with their winding stone walls, yak paddocks and wood and slate houses.
If we are lucky, we will run into Sherpa friends who will invite us
in for some salt-butter tea, climbing up a wooden ladder over the straw-lined
manger to get into the main house on the first floor. Both villages
sit below Khumbila, the sacred Sherpa peak, and near a famous rock-mural
of Guru Rimpoche.
We hike down-valley for twenty minutes to
reach our wonderful lodge in Khumjung, Amadablam Lodge. The views of
Ama Dablam from Khumjung are breathtaking, so enjoy the pastel sunset
over Himalayan peaks ...
Day 8 - Trek to Phortse
3780m/12,400ft
We have a wonderful walk through the walled village of Khumjung,
first visiting Khumjung Gompa with its famous Yeti scalp. This is one
of the three oldest gompas in the Everest region, the other two being
at Pangboche and Thame. We'll trek along the high trail out of the village,
soon meeting the main route from Namche. Continuing along the main trail,
we veer left at the intersection to Gokyo and take the steep trail up
to the bridge which intersects with the old trail from Khumjung, and
climb gradually for another hour of so to Mong La, where we will have
a well-deserved lunch (with fantastic views) at a small lodge perched
spectacularly on this 4000 meter pass.
We have a steep descent to Phortse
Tenga followed by a short but steep climb up to Phortse, one of the
first villages of the Khumbu region, at 3800 meters. On the way up,
keep your eyes open and cameras out as there are many musk deer, Danphe
and Blood Pheasants hiding in the rhododendron forests bordering the
trail and the village. The Danphe hang out digging for potatoes in the
lower fields of the village in the mornings and evenings. We'll bunk
down for the night at one of everyone's favorite lodges, the Phortse
Lodge, which boasts a wonderful dining room, great views and good electricity
for re-charging and perhaps watching a movie. The lodge is run by a
lovely Sherpa couple, the husband a many-time Everest climber and one
of the main participants in the Phortse Climbing School, founded by
Conrad Anchor and his wife.
Day 9 – Trek to Pangboche 3975m/13,040ft
We have a breath-taking
hike in store for us this morning, leaving Phortse on the northeastern
side heading towards Tengboche Gompa across the deep river gorge below.
Our trail skirts the high ridges of Tarboche Peak, often precipitous
but always safe, and offering fantastic views around every corner. Everest,
Nuptse and Lhotse dominate the northern skyline, while Ama Dablam is
close enough to touch to the east and our old friends Kangteiga and
Thamserku grace the valley below us. We climb a small pass, and eventually
reach Upper Pangboche, where we'll wander the old alleys and take a
peek inside one of the four oldest gompas (monasteries), approximately
five hundred years old, in the Khumbu.
Contouring high above the newer
(Lower) Pangboche, we pass a high mani wall, some memorial chortens
and the school before dropping down to our lodge in Lower Pangboche.
It's a lovely village to stop in for the evening, with views across
the river to the trail to Ama Dablam Base Camp and the old airstrip
at Mingbo. We stay the luxurious Pangboche Summit Lodge and will be
treated to a glowing sunset over Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse
Day 10 – Trek to Pangboche 3975m/13,040ft
Pangboche is such
a lovely village, and the lodge one of everyone's favorites, so we've
scheduled an extra day here to enjoy the wonderful mountain views. An
option for the day is to take a four or five hour round-trip hike to
Ama Dablam Base Camp, where you can enjoy the incredible views of Ama
Dablam over lunch at the Ama Dablam Support Lodge, owned by Lhakpa Doma's
sister. A very worthwhile excursion ...
Day 11 - Trek to Namche
We head back down
valley, past rows of ancient mani walls and old, whitewashed chortens
with gazing Buddha eyes to the bottom of the valley where we cross the
Imja Khola on a metal bridge and hike up along a well-worn trail through
a rhododendron forest to Deboche Nunnery. We can stop in for a visit
before starting the steep but relatively short climb to Tengboche gompa
at 4000 meters, the largest monastic community in the Everest region
and one of the Khumbu's most important monasteries. Continuing down
the steep, long hill, it will take us an hour to reach the bottom of
the hill and Phunki Tenga. We'll stop for some lunch here, afterwards
crossing the intersecting river on a new bridge and heading back up,
again steeply, to Tashi and Lhakpa's Amadablam Lodge at Kyangjuma. If
we haven't had lunch at Phunki Tenga we will have it here as we gaze
out on the majestic Ama Dablam. Another hour plus of easy contouring
brings us back to Namche, where we head back to the Sherpa Land Lodge
for the night.
Day 12 - Trek to Phakding
2680m/8790ft
*** If it's Saturday
Market day, we will take the morning to explore the bustling market,
a feast of colors, smells (not all of them appealing), and colorfully-clad
Sherpa women up from their villages for the weekly event. It’s
as much a social gathering as a produce, meat and essential goods market,
so the atmosphere is spirited and lively.
The descent of that long hill that
we plodded up less then a fortnight ago seems amazingly short and easy
on the way down. Jorsale, just before the bridge to Monjo, is the home
of Phuru Diki, one of the two girls Kim sponsors (she's now in school
in Kathmandu), and we will probably run into her youngest sibling and
parents en route. After one last steep hill to the National Park gate,
we reach the welcome sight of Monjo, where we will have lunch with Chombi
& Kali at the Kailash lodge, hopefully in the sun. Afterwards, it's
just another hour back to Phakding along the same trails that we trekked
up a few weeks ago, and we settle in for the night at Mountain Resort,
one of the best lodges in the Khumbu. If anyone wants, we can trek up
just a bit to visit the beautifully situated and old gompa of Sano Gomila,
on a plateau above Phakding, before reaching the lodge.
Day 13 - Trek to Lukla 2850m/9348ft
We trek back to
Lukla along the same trail, although it always looks different coming
from the opposite direction. It's a short day, and we'll either have
lunch in Chheplung, or continue on to Lukla, another half an hour's
walk. We finish the trek back at Dawa Phuti & Ang Pasang's Eco-Paradise
Lodge where everyone stays in the new en-suite rooms. In the evening
we will have yet another Sherpa feast (after hot showers) and perhaps
try some of Dawa's famous Sherpa tongba. This cozy dining room is one
the nicest in the Everest region, so it's always an added treat to return
there after the trek. Ang Pasang works for the airport, so we are in
good hands for our flight out the next morning.
Day 14 - Fly to Kathmandu
Bags packed and ready to go before the sun rises as we fly
out of Lukla to Kathmandu early; taking off from the Hillary Airstrip
is just as exciting as landing! Flights our of Lukla are sometimes delayed
by bad weather, so we have an extra day in Kathmandu just in case.
Once in Kathmandu, we will board
a private van for the ride back to the Yak & Yeti or Shangri La
Hotels, where the wonderful rooms will be much appreciated ...
Day 15 - Farewell
Sadly, we send you
off to the airport for your flight home
***NOTE: We suggest you leave an extra day
in Kathmandu on your itinerary if you don't have an evening flight out
of Kathmandu. Flights out of Lukla are sometimes delayed or cancelled.
We can book the extra nights at Dwarikas for you.
Extra Days in Kathmandu
If you wish to stay longer, we can offer
plenty of suggestions: mountain biking or rafting in the Kathmandu valley,
an Everest sightseeing flight, trips to Bhaktapur or Patan (Kathmandu
Valley's other historic capital cities), a night at the Fort Hotel in
Nagarkot for a bit of luxury and expansive sunrise/sunset mountain panoramas,
visits to interesting temple villages such as Changu Narayan, a few
days at Barahi Hotel in Pokhara or a relaxing excursion to Chitwan National
Park (staying at Maruni Sanctuary Lodge) or Bardia National Park. Kim
or Doma can help to arrange any of these excursions for you.
Tashi Delek & Namaste;
We'll see you during your next trip to the Himalayas!